OK, So here is my very quick review of some of the best DSLR's out there.  First I am a studio photographer mainly I do studio fashion/glamour and beauty/make-up most of the time, I also do some location fashion/glamour and my share of weddings (in a fashionable photojournalistic sort of way.)  I have also done some table top and product work as well as still life, I don't do landscapes unless there is a model in front of it so I am not going to base this review and my opinions on anything but what I do, those that shoot landscapes or architectural photographers even wildlife photographers may find that some of my likes or dislikes are based on camera characteristics that would have no effect on there line of photography. 

 

The contenders:  Canon 1DS :  Canon 10D :  Canon 1D :  Canon D60  :  Kodak 14N :  Fuji S2Pro :  Nikon D100

 

Check this link to see the shots themselves:  http://www.photographersportfolio.com/canon_samples  TO SEE RETOUCHED COLOR CORRCTED SMPLE CLICK ON THIS LINK  http://www.nyphotographics.com/dslr_weddingtest

 

The testing conditions:  I had way too little sleep, (it seems people like to start these tests at 12PM which is about an hour or two before I am awake and ready to go usually)   The Studio, at my home I have devoted the second floor of a quaint two family house to be a studio, office, prop room prep kitchen.  Studio is never as big as I want but I have been very able to do most work here conviently, thanks to a long straight run extending from the studio I can have a full 40 plus foot run to use a longer lens and still shoot a full length shot when needed, so space was adequate, I have more equipment, strobes, light modifiers and accessories and props then I know about so that’s not an issue.  The Model is the most gorgeous model I know, and my favorite to use on a test such as this as she is one of the very few rare individuals blessed with truly beautiful skin that can withstand the scrutiny of the worlds best digital cameras and the eyes of many who have  been use to seeing the standard retouched beauty shots of magazines not many women could hold up well under direct scrutiny with no retouching  luckily I have found one that does it with ease. (OK I am kissing up here but  believe me she is one in a million when it comes to needing so little retouching I wish all models were this great) 

 

The Issues:  well if one was to call me and say I want you to produce a breathtaking shot with a certain camera you have all day to shoot it but you cannot retouch it, well that is not that hard a crew of me, model , make up artist, hairstylist, and stylist should cover it and getting the lighting and exposure so perfect as to create a flawlessness of skin and texture should take no more then a few hours and there you have it.  However, what we have here is lets take some test shots with all these camera (plunk down 7 cameras, and we should of course use the same lens plunk down two lenses one canon, one Nikon as equal as can be, and lets not have a designated make up artist and hairstylist or stylist for that matter)  So we have to shoot a few and switch lenses, shoot a few and switch lenses and hopefully keep track of what we shot and have a similar aspect ratio and similar shot and switch lenses again, and next.  You get the point, so while this is happening we still try to get some nice shots and I feel we have succeeded in that.  So the average was three to 5 shots taken of each look and from that we picked the best ones and I through up a quick site for all to download so be kind about the poses, expressions, and such remember this is a test of the cameras ability to capture what’s in front of it not testing what’s in front of it. 

 

OK,  I know, you don't care about any of this what about the cameras well here it is:

Since not all camera shoot in adobe rgb we stick with srgb colorspace, fair is fair, since standard (daylight, strobe) color temperatures differ by camera and not all cameras have an adjustable Kelvin setting we decide to shoot a gray card and custom white balance all the cameras.  Being a canon user setting all this up on the canons is a breeze, the Fuji is straight forward and settings are fairly simple, the Kodak has some very nice features and ease of use is again noticed, the Nikon D100 needs a manual to figure out how to set a custom white balance, so without a manual we are asking online (dpreview for one) we are calling on the phone to people that might have one stores that may have a boxed one with owners manual, and finally it is discovered as to how to set the custom white balance.  Easy to figure out the Nikon is not, but hey that’s no concern to a photographer they would have read the manual, what’s important is actual use and quality so on we go. 

 

OK, we start shooting, we set up our lighting and place the model in the middle, David Sparer who brought the cameras by shoots a few frames and passes it on to me, I pick up the Kodak 14N and think well it feels a bit awkward, a bit off balance and a bit smooth, not very contoured but hey neither is a hasselblad and there is not anybody complaining about them!  then move for a vertical grip and realize that while they have a button there and what seems to be some ergonomic like design it feels too awkward to shoot this way so that’s OK I hold it like normal and turn the camera, have done this for years, I am a Pro I can handle this lets shoot away...so with Kodak 14N in hand model ready and a blackline pack that can handle whatever I can dish out with a recycle of under a second I am ready to shoot away or should I say shoot one maybe two then press the shutter...press the shutter...press the shutter...pop out from behind the camera and look at model and laugh then refocus and press the shutter...no not yet then ...click... WOW it fired cool, OK so I am being a little sarcastic but the reality is this camera takes forever to write and the buffer is beyond too small, a 4x5 would not be too far behind this in speed, get fast CF cards and lots of them its slow and the files are quite large and take up a lot of space.  So OK, what I learned is I have to learn to tell some jokes in between shots otherwise you make the model a little uneasy when you are pressing the button and nothing is happening all they think is he's not shooting am I posing wrong, should I smile, frown, look at my watch and remind him I get paid by the hour so feel free to take you time.  Now while the model may be OK with you telling them jokes and making coffee, tea or perhaps a soufflé while you wait for the camera to ready itself and occasionally it recalibrates itself for some reason, hopefully a good one an art director looking over your shoulder would probably wonder why you are taking soooo long looking through the camera and not shooting.  Well OK, like I said 4x5 and 8x10 cameras are slow as well, I am dying to check this baby out I have been looking forward to the 14 mega pixel $5000.00 camera for some time, lets run to the computer and see what we have.   Plug in the card and open a file white background pretty model in white wedding dress with veil and whoa what’s that red, green and blue area in the white veil? uh ohh, first shot we opened and there it is the dreaded moiré open another at 100% and look there it is again, maybe its a problem with the bright white lets change it all and start again, the first shot is on the website if your interested  its name is 14N_006_2.jpg courtesy of David Sparer.  So lets do a black background and shoot again, change backgrounds and shoot one then two then tell a few jokes while the camera writes, then struggle with the shutter as I try, attempt, do my best to coerce the camera to shoot by pressing the shutter every time I see the perfect expression only to see the beautiful model get that inquiscal look like "what are you doing?" then and only then do I get the camera to go "click" this is not funny, and maybe I am spoiled by the likes of a canon 1D who is always ready and a 1DS which is usually always ready unless you are working it but never by shot three and never ever this long.  OK, I said it the camera takes a long time to write, it can be worked around and a larger buffer will buy you some time maybe four or five shots until you have to stop dead in your tracks, like I said earlier a landscape photographer may never be bothered by this unless the clouds are blowing but usually they have plenty of time to wait in between shots, and an architectural photographer also has some time, hopefully there is no rushed deadline or impatient AD on the scene.  As for me I would find this camera to be a bit too slow to deal with so the only option is buy two and have them both up and running, this is not a bad alternative since a professional should have a backup anyway.  So I now have some 14 MP files to look at and you too can see them at http://www.photographersportfolio.com/canon_samples this first set is of Vered our lovely model in a wedding veil, names 14N_004_2.jpg and 14N_005_2.jpg  comments on the files in the quality section of this review.  What else bothered me in my short time waiting err, shooting this camera, everything lights up in the view finder, then the focus point stays lit longer? Its a bit distracting but that’s just my preference I would  have preferred just the active point to light up and show me where its focusing. 

OK, next back to something a bit more familiar so I pick up the canon 10D and get ready to shoot, it  focuses fast, locks on and shoots, and shoots and shoots, what was once sooooo slow now seems sooo much faster (funny how relative things are in our minds) I look at the screen and its good, except that the orientation sensor which is a very nice idea and I like that it rotates the picture but I am so not use to it so I am always looking at it the wrong way,  then I get side tracked with the new magnification feature because it is so awesome, (sorry been around too many 18 year old models of late) ok, next shoot a few more same set up so far our lovely model in a veil... oh if only all brides looked this good and behaved this well I would give up glamour and fashion and be a full time wedding photographer.  What did I dislike about using this camera? easy, its not as substantial as the eos 1 series, and it feels it, but still its better then the D30/D60 which I had been accustomed to for more then a year, what else? hmm, I am not a fan of the way they did the simultaneous raw and jpg, unlike the 1D/ 1DS, its not a raw file and a jpg its a full size jpg in the raw file, why does this bother me? I know its almost instantaneous to extract but what bothers me is that I need software to do it, if I am at a clients, a friends, or even my mothers house I may have a card reader there and with the 1 series any shots I took raw plus jpg I can at least open the jpgs, with the 10D I have nothing but raws and would need software to extract the jpgs by that time if I installed the software I could just as soon use the raw.  Other thing and I may be wrong so do not quote me on this but I do not think you can bump the jpg quality setting up from the standard high (8) to 10 like you can in the 1 series through a custom parameter.  What else don't I like? well that’s a bad way to put it, its not that I don't like it its that I can think of ways I would have preferred it, such as the adobe rgb setting, its either adobe rgb or its not, I though the 1 series was a bit dumb for putting several color options on a camera when I first got one, I used to think I want an accurate color, so why say white balance for accurate color temp then use 1 for a natural look, two for a tinted color that is pleasing for people, three or five for muted or vivid colors and four for all the colors, why, why, why, but then I realized I custom white balance on a gray card with a 1/4 blue filter on my lens usually then remove it and shoot to warm up the shot, this is mildly what is happening when you use the portrait setting, I used velvia if I wanted some over saturated colors, this is what the saturated setting is doing, so this is more of a simple out of the camera approach and I have realized its benefit as I now predominantly shoot portrait color for proofing and only convert through adobe when going to offset.   I would have preferred a set up like this in the 10D.  The write times seem long and preview always seemed long but its still not in league with the write times of the 14N but then its also less then half the megapixelness (not a real word)

 

Next lets give the old 1D a try, WOW talk about the theory of relativity this seems to be faster then the speed of light I can almost view the preview before I press the shutter, too bad its only a measly little outdated 4 and a half mega pixels. (Just kidding I still love this camera and if anyone has any doubts about these measly few pixels I want you to download my samples and download my 1D interpolation actions free and use them to blow up these shots as large as you want and print them as big as you can at home and then write me an email explaining how I was right and you cannot believe that 4.5 mega pixels could hold up so well, I like reading those)  Now this being said the 1D is still more money then the other 6 mp cameras and for many who want the extra pixels you can save some by going with them, and again I shot them all and have them here for you to download and compare so there’s no reason to question, download them and see for yourself which one you like.  OK back to the camera the 1D is a dream to use the speed is unmatched, the feel is terrific, the menu system is a bit awkward as you have to hold a button to do everything and there is no ZOOM IN (Hello Canon? What’s With That?) additional features I would have liked to see is some means of  changing parameters and settings in camera rather then through a computer, also some way to add or subtract a set Kelvin from a color temp, (i.e. set white balance via a gray card then say add one or two hundred degrees Kelvin to get a warmer color rendition, Yes you can dial in Kelvin but I would have to know what the color temp is where I am shooting in order to add two hundred degrees it would be nice to just set an accurate one and add or subtract by a set amount.)  What else would I like to see? well the Kodak has a superior means of selecting the white balance and the way they allow you to check density is very nice something similar would be nice, feel free to use these ideas free of charge in any future models or firmware upgrades, its my pleasure.  And, I would be happy to field test any free of charge (he types smiling in a friendly manor)

 

OK now the Nikon D100, lets see what this is all about so far it took a bit too long to figure out the white balance but like I said not being user friendly is not a real long term problem, its easily remedied by a degree in nikonics and a major cram session with a users manual neither of which I have or had done.  So I set it up and shoot and shoot, hey this is not that bad, focus is better then expected, quick, accurate, locks nicely, shoots nicely, look at the preview and look at the screen waiting...waiting...waiting... at least it shoots relatively quickly but when you fill the buffer you can bake a cake waiting for the buffer to clear, whatever you do not make the mistake I made and put a microdrive in there, microdrives are slow to begin with and the combination means you can put the camera down and go for lunch, a fast CF card helped but this camera takes a long long time to write to the cf and clear the buffer, again in my opinion this is not fast enough t be used in a fast paced pro atmosphere.  Of course you could also have two of these and shoot and switch and shoot and switch and again you would have a back up when and if you needed it, but that’s not the way I like to do things.  Overall, I felt this is a nice camera for the major prosumer market that has some Nikon lenses and wants to get into digital or wants to take shots in a non rushed environment.  Fit and ergonomics are very nice, user interface not so friendly, too many steps to do things in my opinion.  Not a bad camera but I have yet to try its major competition the Fuji S2 so I reserve a bit of praise for now. 

 

Now onto the 1DS for a few brief snaps here and there, nothing too elaborate as this camera is not in the same league as anything else here today, one look at the files on the screen would clearly show this to be the case, and as I am a HUGE HUGE HUGE fan of this camera I can say with confidence that it is beyond anything out at twice its price.  That being said its damm expensive! I can't buy two one main and one back up hell one is way too much to spend, at 7000+ US dollars someone please make a competitive camera at a low price to help force canon to lower the price a lot!!  OK, sorry about that just had to get it out of my system, what I dislike about this camera? It’s not as fast as the 1D.  I am not so concerned with frames per second mind you I never shoot 8 fps anyway but the write times and the wait for the preview are like molasses next to the 1D, I should buy a 14N just to make this seem fast in comparison that would work, that Einstein, he was a genius thinking up that theory of relativity it can solve many dilemmas we face with computers, as it is it seems my computer is always slow until I get on a slower model.  What else would I like to see? well considering this camera is unreal in file quality, I mean it is a models worst nightmare every pore in there skin is picked up to the point that there pores have pores, you can see what’s beneath there makeup its so detailed, the color is unreal accurate, the files blow up super well, moiré is relegated to the statistically insignificant as is winning the lotto which would help you afford one and a good L lens to fully realize the sharpness of the camera.  The dynamic range is a bit unwieldy as I have a hard time getting a black, black, no matter what it is seeing something in those shadows and I often have to bring the black point down just ever so slightly to create a black, black, highlights are held very well, almost as well as the 1D which has an amazing tendency to hold highlights where you should have blown them out.  What would I add to the 1DS? an easier way to add custom curves, well not to add the curves this is probably more of a software issue but being able to apply custom curves to the 1 series is in my opinion a very over looked feature, it could create in camera film characteristics like saturated warm, or cool film, cross processed effects, and a variety in between, and if you read my wish list for the 1D its the same here the zoom is already added so that’s nice, but if that’s what slows everything down give me a custom function to turn it off and speed things up a bit, and this curve thing could be an answer for the plus and minus Kelvin settings however, its so hard to adjust in the canon software that it might as well not exist.  Fix that by making it easier or somehow figure a way to map a Photoshop curve over and that could be a serious plus in my book.  

 

Now the last camera to test the Fuji S2 Pro, a wonder of physics as I like to call it, the only camera I know that can take 6million pixels turn them into 12 and then tell me that they are not interpolating its actually seeing more because there 1's and 0's (I don't make this stuff up a Fuji rep explained that I don't understand digital its all 1's and 0's and there camera gets 12 million of them even though they only have 6 million receptors.  Boy, I am dumb I always though 6 plus 0 equals 6 not 12 but they know digital and its all 1's and 0's)  Anyway, who cares is there camera good?  Well I like the ease of use, it is fairly simple to operate, the menus are intuitive, the write times are slow but definitely bearable, I do not like a dual battery system, just more things to go dead and have to carry, I miss the vertical shutter release but no biggy there.  Feel and ergonomics are pretty good, shoot shoot and it feels ok, not bad I am kind of liking it overall, much nicer feel then the D100 and 14N for that matter.  I do not like that to shoot at say 6 mega pixels it has to interpolate up to 12 then back down to 6, defeats the purpose of shooting at 6 for me anyway as saving space is not the biggest issue quality is.   

 

A few quick shots with the now discontinued D60 why? well because its been a big question to people who have a D60 and are thinking of jumping to the 10D and to may who are looking at getting a used D60 as a starting point in the DSLR market rather then go for the very reasonable priced 10D, plus I have a D60 still as I myself love the colors straight as they come.  So I am not taking too much time here on this as it had been discontinued but I did a few direct comparison shots, the auto focus is inferior to the 10D no question, its slower to focus, slower to lock and has less points, I hear the Ettl is improved on the 10D but in a studio this is moot and untested, the colors coming from this camera are still some of the most pleasing (not accurate but pleasing for skin tones anyway) from any camera out there, and many say its sharper the 10D? maybe, I say if you need higher iso's the 10D has them, if you need Adobe RGB setting which has merit when going to offset, the 10D has it, if you need faster and better auto focus the 0D delivers, and as for file quality and color rendition this is subjective to many so check the site for yourself download the shots and see for your self side by side print them if you like blow them up and see what you think.

 

OK so this was the first round testing everything  one thing to note as luck would have it I inadvertently underexposed the 10D shots by shooting them at f13 instead of f9 but fortunately there is this wonderful exposure compensation in breezebrowser and I compensated up by one stop and WOW, no extra noise and a good clean shot that I would be very comfortable blowing up to larger then life poster and presenting to clients, brides, mother- in- laws, art directors and others, in fact the first shot I had posted the same night I shot these shots before I even converted most of them was one such shot that I personally fell for, its one I like a lot for some reason and I converted it (exposing up a stop in the conversion) and posted a full size link to it along with my interpolation action and a direct challenge to anyone who doubts the 10D quality to download it, and the action blow it up and print it large for themselves, then let me know.  I should stop doing this as it tends to generate hundreds of emails saying wow what about?  not that I mind but I feel bad because I get swamped and cannot get back to everyone in a timely manor, though I try my best.  That shot is 10D_000_2.jpg  

 

Now for the quality portion: First Software and conversions

 

OK, so that’s how the cameras worked and I have added my own little comments here and there in case you had not noticed, but what’s actually even more important? well I am not sure, what is more important a camera that lets you get the shot or one that has better final outcome? I don't know for sure if there is an answer, all these cameras technically out perform the D30 and I have some of my best and largest shots from that still, and by any of these cameras its functionality and file size is substandard, so I guess its a matter of what’s important to you? getting the shot at any cost or missing a few but having them be the best possible quality?  Does this mean there is no compromise? Not at all, but these cameras excel at different things, pure and simple nothing is as fast the 1D, you will catch more shots then anything else, but its only 4.5MP's and nothing is as slow as the 14N in this test but that may not matter at all if you are shooting still life and used to an 8x10 view cam.  (I am not saying it’s that bad, just if that’s what your used to speed is an irrelevant issue)  Another little side note, I am soooo spoiled by the speed of the 1D, and yet I was used to an eos 1 then 1N the 1VHS then I got a D30 and while the auto focus was as bad as manually focusing with one eye blindfolded and the other dilated  I was soooo enthralled by the fact that I could see the shot immediately  (my first real digital camera) that the speed became a non issue, overshadowed by the benefits of my new found enthusiasm for photography and the ability to experiment and instantly see the results and learn new things, attempt new ideas and play more then ever.  I shot more then I ever would have with the 10 yes that’s TEN FRAMES PER SECOND that the 1VHS was capable of, so for me back then it was not speed or quality but rather pure enjoyment that meant the most and caused me to become reinterested in photography and the whole art of making nice photos. 

  

 Lets get back to quality shall we.  OK, first I want to say that the samples are up for all to download and judge for yourself, so you need not take my word for it as I myself can tell that I am somewhat skewed in one direction as I have been a Canon owner and fan for years, But that won't stop me from telling you what I think.  Canon is not paying me and even if they would  (I would take high end digital cameras as trade possibly if your reading this hint, hint) they would have to understand from the get go that while I am more then happy to tell people how good a good product is I will also tell people the truth above all in my opinion, so if a competing product excelled I would say so and I would hope Canon would come up with a better product for it (it would be very costly to have to switch over all my anon gear for Nikon or Minolta or Pentax by the way are Minolta and Pentax still around? they could help by jumping in here and causing the prices to fall so I can get myself a more affordable 1DS anyone listening?) So, that being said I opened the files, I converted the raw canon files through Breezebrowser as I am a Tremendous fan of that program, I think I could add some features and I would be happy to list them should anyone care to read it but overall, I do not remember the last time I had my computer on that breeze and Photoshop were not open and running.  So I converted the canon files, 1D, and 1DS as shot custom white balance, matrix 2 sRGB, sharpening off, save as high jpg, the D60 convert as shot normal, tone, low saturation, normal contrast, normal sharpening, save as high jpg, the 10D like I said I had to exposure compensate up one stop otherwise normal everything sRGB save as high jpg.

 

The Nikon D100 I used Phase One LE, I convert as shot save as tiff and in Photoshop I convert to high jpg just as the last samples I did.

This has been changed as the Nikon SLR forum was unhappy with my results and volunteered to reconvert the files, Since I am a working fashion photographer and this is already a bit old I have not had time to check this conversion but believe in good faith that it was done exactly as they said and I listed the steps below. Thank you to Anthony Medici for his coneversion.

Sequence B

1: Load the RAW into Capture 3.5.

2: Set the Color Mode to II.

3: Set to low contrast.

4: Set the exposure to -0.24.

5: Set the levels in the curves section to 0, 0.92, 255.

6: Output to 16 bit TIFF and load into photoshop.

7: Convert to sRGB

8: Change to 8 bit

9: Save as jpeg.

What I like about Sequence B. It deals with the minor over exposure. It flattens the contrast allowing for an easier conversion. It darkens some of the mid levels to bring the contrast up slightly. What I ended up with is somewhere in between low and normal contrast. If I want more contrast, it should be done in Photoshop with the sharpening and other corrections (cloning out dust, etc.) This process also brings the image to about the same brightness as the 1DS image. (At least, to my eyes.) Note on the preset white balance. I feel it was too close to adjust. If you could tell me exactly what the lights Kelvin is, I can compare it directly to see if the preset and the known level are the same. The Auto WB in capture comes up with 5500. This changes things very, very slightly. That's why I didn't do anything with WB, it wasn't needed. BTW, if you clipped on the preset like you did for these images, it might effect the WB temperature being used by the camera. With a grey card, you should not have clipped.

While I will say mild overexposure is apparent to all the white gowns as the shots were set according to a light meter and not the camera, the main difference was only the D100 and 1D are at 200 iso the 1DS, D60 and 10D are at 100 iso but that also was compensated for. Amazingly enough I am actually able to shoot images and get paid to have them run in the magazines that lead most of you to want to be a photographer (Fashion/beauty or glamour photographer anyway) in the first place. And I can't get teh exposure or color right just goes to show its who you know not what you know!

 

The Kodak 14N I used photo desk 3.0 convert as shot to high jpg using the portrait look.

 

The Fuji S2Pro, OK I have no software for this at this time so I look online nothing, nada, zilch, so I find that bibble supports S2 files and I use it I think the files look way way to pink/purple, so I give Fuji a call and explain the situation and explain that I want to be more fair and I feel that perhaps Bibble is not doing their files justice, I speak with two people at the  NJ location who say, "Our colors are very accurate and good Bibble is not,"  OK, so is there someway I could get the software to convert the files or have them converted its only 5 shots? "NO, its proprietary, our colors are very good and bibble is not, there is no way to get the software, sorry"  Its not like I wont get it? I mean HELLO? ever hear of customer service? be a little bit more helpful, I am going to get it, its just not a real priority for me to go find someone that has it and get a copy oh sorry have them convert the files, I almost wanted to run to B&H and buy and S2 just to have the software and concert it then return the camera but what purpose would that serve? So I will get the raw files converted soon, Just a few phone calls and a planned trip to whoever has it, in the meantime my versions are up online as they came out Yes I could correct them but I could correct all the files or whatever yet that would invalidate the whole thing so instead take it for what its worth these are just a straight conversion through bibble, I will soon put up the new ones converted through there software and anyone who wants to be informed of that can email me to be updated when it happens, I do have some links to similar samples posted by David Sparer who was shooting with me and who has the Fuji software, as his are less pink but still on the magenta side I will direct you too his shots to see what he has converted with there software, same camera, same settings same everything but button pusher.  Check those shots at http://www.pbase.com/dsphoto/s2

 

My quality conclusions:  (Its about time why wasn’t there just a button to skip to this in the first place rather then read all the blabbering that came before?)   OK, here it is, say it with me the CANON 1DS  ahhmmm well enough said, if only it would be less expensive otherwise it is worth it every penny, you can replace all your gear up to 6.45 without hesitation with this one.  Check the files there is nothing more to say about it, look for yourself and if you do not think it is worth what they are charging then there is something wrong with your valuation. Compared to the 1DS the skin on every other camera ses soft almost smoothed as if a slight blur were applied. Now this may be desirable as the 1DS seems to cause the pores to pop out in a three dimensional way, however it is accurately sharp so sharp many may easily say its too sharp at times, do you think you are up for a challenge? I have placed 100% crops up together labeled A-G of Vered, these are small crops all as shot no sharpening, it will demonstrate the skin texture smoothing I mentioned but if you are really up for it see if you can tell which skin and eye and in most a piece of hair is from what camera, the answers are on at the buttom of the page so scroll down. Click here (warning 300+kilo file) . Also check these links I think it shows what this camera captures quite nicely, Click here to see a full frame Full frame and a click here to see a 100% crop with some unsharp mask applied, shot with a 24-70 L I think you'll see that a L class Prime lens may be more then a model could take.

 

OK, the Canon 1D holds its own, its an amazing camera that I would place above the 6MP cameras here any day.  Its faster, built better, its file hold up very, very well, its metering and spot metering ability is top notch, auto focus is  beyond reproach, and the dynamic range is superior, for its age its still worthy of its price even the MSRP if you are a working pro this outperforms the 6 MP cameras in most every aspect file size is not everything its the pixel size that matters (just kidding) seriously the 4.5 MP camera holds up well and other characteristics add up to more then worth the upgrade. 

 

The Kodak 14N It has some very nice design ideas, extended range jpgs is a very nice idea, dual card slots again a nice idea, I did notice that highlights blow out in a way that is very filmlike, this you may notice on the hair in a shot of our model with the black netting. Noise is unbearable at anything above 80 for a camera this expensive, and even at 80 iso its not acceptable for a 5000.00 price tag, the fact that most all the shots I took with it had some file problem (i.e. moiré, noise and a noise reduction algorithm that just made mush out of certain fine detail) was more then I expected, as I see it a moiré issue should be one that is very rare could happen but the real likeliness is one in every two hundred that would be ok by me, I shot four when we first stopped to check and four had the problem, and yes I know a veil is tough but weddings are a big business for photographers and a veil is going to be a common item to be photographed  (why do you think we used a veil?) Also I noticed slight issues where it seemed to squash detail in the hair and somewhat soften the skin texture or so it seems as compared to an also unsharpened 1DS file, the skin lacked pore detail, I am not saying I want pore detail on a bride hell  most wedding photographers I know have a collection of soft... softer... softest filters to place on there Carl Zeiss lens but GOD forbid that Carl zeiss lens was soft they are paying for some of the sharpest glass made on the finest grain film.  So again if I want to soften the image that’s my choice if I want it sharper then a models skin can bear that’s what the camera should produce as that’s what’s there.  Overall, I think the camera has some very nice features I think the extended buffer is mandatory as is fast CF cards, I feel the major flaws are quality, and moiré.  Thinking about it, if you are a wedding photographer and you take a shot of a bride and groom, and they want a blow up, not too big lets say 16x20"  and you blow it up they can overlook some noise may not even notice it, and in truth they can overlook some softness as a soft focus filter would have produced that anyway, but even the totally untrained eye would have to question where the red, green and blue pattern came from in their expensive white veil, on the nice clean white dress, or why there hair has come funky colors running through it which their hairdresser and colorist did not put in?  That to me is a problem and a flaw that cannot be overlooked, Kodak is a well respected company there dcs 760, 660, 560 and probacks are all very good cameras for there purpose and use and this is not in my opinion up to the standards that they should be maintaining.  Nothing personal I was just a little disappointed. 

 

The Nikon D100 OK, I am not going to say I loved this one, fact is I was not thrilled by the files here, they are soft in my opinion, and over saturated two supposed flaws of the old D60 and new 10D and yet here they are seemingly softer and more saturated then the 10D by far, the skin looked a bit pasty, but I will say this the prints up too 16x20 looked very nice, warm saturated skin tones are not that unpleasing just not as accurate.  Softness can be helped these files require a good deal more unsharp mask, and while USM seems to be a miracle of after the fact focus adjustment its actually damaging the real recorded detail of the scene and should be used sparingly. 

UPDATE: The files had been reconverted with the Nikon software, They are still softer then the other 6MP camera files and the color is still warmer then they should be or should I say it is warmer then all the other cameras recorded slightly saturated leaning toward oversatured, its skin tones are not unpleasant but not totally accurate.

 

The Fuji S2 Pro, Commenting is touchy as I have what I believe to be substandard conversions, yet color and saturation aside it does seem to have sharper detail then the D100, in fact it seems to be the sharpest out of the camera of any of the 6MP cameras, it also appears to have very slight moiré and artifacting patterns showing up but only on high magnification, overall it looks to be a fairly nice file as far as detail goes, on par with the D60/10D  in detail as for color I cannot say at this time but I do look forward to having a good report as I have seen some beautiful images come from some S2 cameras, I have little reason to think that this will not be the case. As far as my images go assuming the color is only a conversion issue and is fixed to as good as if not better then the D100 I would then place the S2 above the D100 even with the less then helpful customer service reps and somewhat obnoxious attitude of the Fuji proponents when it comes too explaining there version of mathematics.  I hope to amend this with a more detailed description of the files converted with Fuji’s software as soon as possible. 

 

The Canon 10D This is an  improvement over the D60 in many ways I do still have a real fondness for the D60 colors (pleasing, not accurate) and that appreciation grows when I see direct side by side comparisons with other files, that being said I recently posted a 10D file and an interpolation I used for it to go to 500 megabytes from the 18 meg raw converted to jpg not even a tiff and I have to say that I was definitely impressed with the cameras quality, Its functionality is improved and of the 6MP cameras I would recommend it to all, This may change from a recommend to all to a reckoned to anyone with canon or no heavy Nikon investment if and only if the Fuji’s colors do prove to be equal to or preferably better then the D100. 

 

The Canon D60 while I have a very hard time using it after using a 1D, 1DS I still have one and I think I will keep it for its nice color renditions of people for portrait type work when 11 MPs' are defiantly overkill and every now and then its just nice to see the colors come straight from there.  Its also very nice to print direct from the camera not magazine stuff but everyday shots here and there its still very pleasing, I would recommend that anyone today looking a 10D is a better deal overall but if you can deal with the D60 shortcomings as many of us have and still do and you can get one for a good price by all means this is a great camera that produces a very nice file, if you currently have one and are contemplating upgrading to the 10D I would say it is worth it only if the functions of the camera are what your after as far as file quality its on par and perhaps not worth an upgrade for that alone, not withstanding some external need for an adobe rgb color space. 

 

Any questions? I know hold on I will be bombarded by them no matter what so I can only say I hope you will attempt to take advantage of the wonderful resource available called www.dpreview.com and its forum which I regularly frequent, many of the questions you have will have already been answered, I also hope to have this running there as a thread so that all of you with the same questions can get the answer once rather then my normal retyping it to thirty or so people who email asking the same thing.  I hope to have posted a link below to a forum thread where you all can ask and answer each other when I am not able to respond.  USE THIS FORUM THREAD CLICK HERE    http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1019&message=4959739

 

Link to the website of sample images.  Click on a thumbnail to see a larger version click on the larger version to download the full size jpg.   http://www.photographersportfolio.com/canon_samples

 

Link to my website http://www.nyphotographics.com

 

Link to my interpolation challenge  http://www.nyphotographics.com/ftpsites/10Ddemo.htm

 

Link to my interpolations and actions to download  http://www.nyphotographics.com/ftppage.htm

 

Link to David Sparers Fuji samples as well as 1DS, 10D, 14N, and D100 Samples and images. http://www.pbase.com/dsphoto

 

Link to Dpreview forums a valuable resource for digital photographers  (I can usually be found in the canon slr forum)  http://www.dpreview.com/forums/default.asp